Seville in December: Festive Lights and Mild Winter Days
What to eat in Seville in December: Seasonal delicacies
What to eat in Seville in December: Seasonal delicacies
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Espinacas con garbanzos
A thick stew of spinach, chickpeas, garlic, cumin, and paprika, this dish reflects Seville’s Moorish and convent heritage. It is usually vegetarian and hearty enough as a main tapa. You will find it year‑round at market bars and traditional taverns. Try a portion at a stall inside Mercado de Triana while watching cooks work.
Salmorejo is a chilled puréed soup of tomato, bread, olive oil, and garlic, usually topped with egg and cured ham. It draws on Andalusia’s need for refreshing dishes in warm months, yet appears on menus most of the year. Order a bowl at Mercado Lonja del Barranco’s stands and eat it on the shaded riverside terrace.
This small sandwich is filled with shredded leftover meats from a long‑cooked stew, pressed into crusty bread. It reflects thrifty home cooking and is a classic mid‑day snack in Seville’s bars. For a local version, seek out stalls and taverns around Mercado de la Calle Feria on a Thursday market morning.
Cola de toro is a slow‑braised oxtail stew cooked with red wine, vegetables, and spices until gelatinous and tender. Once linked to bullring leftovers, it is now a restaurant specialty served year‑round. Sample a tapa portion with bread at one of the prepared‑food counters inside Mercado Lonja del Barranco.
This thin, crisp wafer made with olive oil, flour, sugar, anise, and sesame comes from nearby towns but is a daily snack in Seville. It is dairy‑free and often enjoyed with coffee or as a light dessert. Buy individually wrapped tortas at Confitería La Campana on Calle Sierpes and taste them standing at the marble counter.
A thick stew of spinach, chickpeas, garlic, cumin, and paprika, this dish reflects Seville’s Moorish and convent heritage. It is usually vegetarian and hearty enough as a main tapa. You will find it year‑round at market bars and traditional taverns. Try a portion at a stall inside Mercado de Triana while watching cooks work.
Salmorejo is a chilled puréed soup of tomato, bread, olive oil, and garlic, usually topped with egg and cured ham. It draws on Andalusia’s need for refreshing dishes in warm months, yet appears on menus most of the year. Order a bowl at Mercado Lonja del Barranco’s stands and eat it on the shaded riverside terrace.
This small sandwich is filled with shredded leftover meats from a long‑cooked stew, pressed into crusty bread. It reflects thrifty home cooking and is a classic mid‑day snack in Seville’s bars. For a local version, seek out stalls and taverns around Mercado de la Calle Feria on a Thursday market morning.
Cola de toro is a slow‑braised oxtail stew cooked with red wine, vegetables, and spices until gelatinous and tender. Once linked to bullring leftovers, it is now a restaurant specialty served year‑round. Sample a tapa portion with bread at one of the prepared‑food counters inside Mercado Lonja del Barranco.
This thin, crisp wafer made with olive oil, flour, sugar, anise, and sesame comes from nearby towns but is a daily snack in Seville. It is dairy‑free and often enjoyed with coffee or as a light dessert. Buy individually wrapped tortas at Confitería La Campana on Calle Sierpes and taste them standing at the marble counter.
December is festive and cool, with dazzling Christmas lights, markets, and traditional sweets. Days are crisp and perfect for walking, while evenings invite cozy gatherings. The city is lively around the holidays, with unique Spanish traditions and joyful celebrations.
From late November to December 23, artisans line Avenida de la Constitución and Plaza San Francisco with stalls selling Nativity figures and accessories. It signals the start of Advent and attracts steady local traffic, especially weekends. Stalls are free to browse; evenings can be busy but pleasant.
Throughout December and until Epiphany (throughout December interpreted as December 1–31, extending to January 6), Seville fills with lights, markets, Nativity scenes, and zambomba flamenca gatherings. Visitor numbers rise from mid‑month, with a peak around New Year. Book central stays early for late December.
On 8 December, the Cathedral’s 10:00 Mass includes the centuries‑old Dance of Los Seises, where choirboys in historic costumes perform before the altar. Seating is limited and the rite is brief but significant. Photography is restricted; arrive early if you wish to attend, and expect a fully packed nave.
Spain’s Constitution Day on 6 December is marked in Seville by an institutional act at the Andalusian Parliament building. Events are formal and not aimed at tourists. The main impact is another public holiday preceding 8 December, creating a long weekend with higher domestic tourism and booked accommodation.
Mid‑December brings public flamenco‑style Christmas sing‑alongs, with one notable zambomba in Plaza del Altozano. Neighbors and artists perform carols accompanied by guitars and percussion. It is free and crowded but friendly, and a good way to see local seasonal culture; dress warmly for cool night temperatures.
On 31 December, many residents gather at Plaza Nueva to eat twelve grapes with the midnight chimes and watch fireworks. The event is free, lively, and safe for most travelers, though very crowded at the countdown. Bars and clubs open late afterward; book a restaurant if you want a sit‑down dinner before joining.
Seville in December at a glance
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Weather
Maximum temperature: 16°C
Minimum temperature: 7°C
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Daylight
Around 9 hours 40 minutes of daylight
Sunrise: 8:30am
Sunset: 6:10pm
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Key events
Feria del Belén (Nativity Market), Navidad en Sevilla (Christmas season), Immaculate Conception Day – “Los Seises”, Constitution Day ceremony
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Crowds
Fewer tourists, shorter queues at attractions, and a quieter overall vibe, as locals may be on holiday.
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What to pack
Coat, scarf, hat, umbrella, warm layers for 7–16°C.
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Seasonal treats
Polvorones and mantecados at La Campana, churros con chocolate, Roscón de Reyes at Christmas markets
Plan ahead: must-visit experiences for Seville in December
